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Old-School Incarnate: Fjällräven

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From: Stephen Regenold

November 05, 2010

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Step inside the Fjallraven Store at 262 Mott Street in New York City and you enter a time warp where wool pants, waxed jackets, and backpacks with leather straps and metal buckles adorn the walls. Fjallraven -- pronounced "Fee-Yell-Raven" -- means arctic fox in Swedish, and the brand has roots in the country's northerly regions where snow piles and polar gales blast from Valhalla and other points past the Arctic Circle.

Fj  llr  ven StorePhoto: (c) Fjällräven
Mott Street Store

Fjallraven was founded in Sweden 50 years ago. It is a widely-recognized name in its home country, where school kids for a couple generations have slung on the company's boxy Kanken backpacks. Parkas, bags, and outdoors clothing are staples in the line.

The flagship New York store, which I visited this week, is a basement space with white walls and an Army-surplus feel. Gear is arranged on shelves and hung on the walls, including Fjallraven products and items from other niche brands. There are few electronics, a lack of known outdoors brands and, except for the chopping axes, almost nothing that is "cutting edge."

Fj  llr  venPhoto: (c) Fjällräven
Arktis Parka

Indeed, the Fjallraven aesthetic and the store in general is in drastic juxtaposition to almost every other product and current theme in the outdoors industry. The company makes jackets for ice fishing and polar treks. The clothing has a traditional outdoors look that your dad or grandpa might have worn. Fjallraven eschews Gore-Tex in favor of iron-on wax! (The company sells sticks of wax, which can be melted with an iron and rubbed into the fabric of a jacket to make it waterproof.)

The products are not cheap, either. The Fjallraven Arktis Parka -- a down-insulated piece made for, among other activities, ice fishing -- costs $775. It has a hood with synthetic fur and is marketed with features including a breast pocket large enough to hold a thermos. The Norr Shirt, $125, is a cotton flannel button-up with a decorative yoke and two chest pockets with flaps.

In New York, the Fjallraven store feels like an anachronism amongst its neighboring boutiques on trendy Mott Street. The staffer that helped me out, Maria, had a Swedish accent and an enthusiasm toward the Fjallraven brand, which she says has been present in her life since she was a child.

Fj  llr  ven BackpackPhoto: (c) Fjällräven
Kanken backpack

Clearly, the company is riding the retro wave with its idiosyncratic line. The look is pure and classic 1960s and '70s design, like an LL Bean catalog page from decades back. It conjures nostalgia and warm fuzzy feelings to anyone who grew up camping and hiking in similar gear. Mott Street is a good venue for a brand where authenticity can blend with fashion, plus, perhaps, a dash of subtle irony tossed in on the side.

To me, that's what Fjallraven is -- neat and fun, but not likely the products I'd pick for anything more than casual hiking and camping. At the store, Maria attempted to sell me on the concept of polyester/cotton fabric blends, waxed jackets, and boxy little backpacks. I do love traditional and crafty products where they make sense. But this winter I am going to have to stick with my modern-day backpacks as well as Gore-Tex instead of wax and an iron to rub it on, no matter how cold it gets outside.

--Stephen Regenold is founder and editor of www.gearjunkie.com.

Comments

andre bjolve January 09, 2011

Have tested this parka in real bad weather today. Drowe an ATV in tempratures ranging minus 1 to minus 8 c. Was wearing a wool undershirt and a wool jumper. It was very foggy, windy and everything was extremly wet and cold. This trip was for more than three hours in speed exceding 60 to 70 km/h. This jacket keept wather out and I was not freesing at all. I was very surprised and pleased of this. I have been driving motrobikes for many years and I know when things work proper. It seems like this jacket keeps it promises in real world testing. I will come back with more news when i have used this jacket for a longer periode.Time will show if it keeps is`s promises.

andre bjolve December 22, 2010

Got one 2 weeks ago. Have tested it in minus 25 c wearing just a cotton shirt and T-shirt. Sitting out in the cold by the open fire for more than 6 hours. My friends wearing anoraks and other normal winter stuff. They frooze real bad. Have been walking for 10 km in minus 20 c. Worked just great. I work a lot outside during winter and this parka is the best so far. Have tested down parkas earlier on and most are just jokes when it comes to real. Nice at a buss stop and thats it. This one works even out in the real nature. With wax on, it`s also waterproof for wet snow. In real cold, x-tec works very bad. Its like wearing a condom, and for sure you will be wet.

Swede Swedeson December 20, 2010

More on the outer shell (which really is what distinguieshes this parka from the others): It is not an extremely thin material, which I would rip in real-life use. It is not a China-copy-material, i.e., not as heavy as what you find on e.g. eBay. It is 'breathing' much better than any X-tex, but it will not like *much* rain - but then, you would not wear this jacket anyway. Should you be out in continuous snowing, you may want some wax (which you, according to the PR, can wash out) on shoulders and arms. Do I like this jacket: Yes, very, very much. And: Not employed, nor affiliated in any way with the maker. To prove that: I use Ventile garment from Snowsled in the UK for skiing.

Swede Swedeson December 20, 2010

Reading my own text: I wore the jacket on top of shirt+Tshirt. :) Else, what car enthisiast would say: It seems to be of good 'build quality', i.e., I have not discovered any bad seems. About looks: There are some subtle dark red details (short stramps on the zips), and one behind the storm flap. Subtle details, that I as an owner really appreciate, but do not show off. All in all, this winter garment replaces my old, heavy copy-parka, it makes more sense in practise than does the pure city parkas, it does not show off colorwise (but the dual color model is not what everyone else wears), and I suspect I will have this jacket for 15-20 years. Depending on my future weight. :)

Swede Swedeseon December 20, 2010

Tried the Arctic Parka: The Arctic parka is difficult to get in late 2010 - sold out everywhere in northern Europe. I got hold of one (size S fits snuggly on me, 175 no big stomach :), and here is my review: This is a very functional piece of garment. The outer shell seems to be a slightly thinner version of what military uniforms are made from. Thus, it does mind some bushes or rough ice edges as does standard down jackets do. Pockets are generous, but they are good looking enough for city use. Temperature test: Today, I spent 10 minutes in 10 below zero, no wind, dry climate with no action (waiting for train) with a cotton Tshirt and office-style shirt. Perfect body temperature (I did not notice it). It is longer at the back than at the front, meaning you can sit on it. Weight: It is lighter than you think

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